Accord 6 speed transmission wiring | AEM
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boostedj30
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Accord 6 speed transmission wiring

Hey Guys, glad to see the forum up and running.  I finally bit the bullet and invested in a EMS2, part 30-6051 for my car.  Its a 2001 Accord, V6.  I have already done the 6 speed swap years ago, and have been using the FIC6 to tune for boost.

 

Im just going through the wiring adjustments, which are pretty straight forward, I just need some clarification with certain things.  

1. Manual transmission wiring.  The reverse lock out is easy, pin A3.  But What about reverse lights, is that pinD6?

2. Speedometer wiring. I found this on a forum, but im still not 100% confident this is how to do it.

 

Speedo Fix:
First:

Second:
Unplug the upper plug and let it chill
Unplug the lower plug and plug it into the upper sensor

3. And lastly the clutch safety switch.  Not sure how to go about that either.

 

I also noticed a conflict in the wiring, for the power steering switch, pin A26.  I was hoping.... that this was a plug and play wire and pre-set in my engines profile for the power steering switch.  The conflict that I noticed is in the accessory wiring, this is the switched input wire as well, A26. Isnt that the same as the switched ground for switching between two tunes on the fly, like the FIC had?

 

Please have patience with me, I am still learning all the features of the EMS2 compared to the FIC. 

 

Thanks

Karanx7
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Joined: 12/30/2014 - 04:27
I have a 2002 Acura TL (6

I have a 2002 Acura TL (6 speed swap) which I just finished up wiring to the AEM EMS 2 30-6051. My build should be very similar, if not exact, to yours.

1. Reverse Lockout: Not as simple as just pin A3. You need to wire a switcheable ground output pin to the reverse lockout, and wire the other pin on the lockout switch to fuse 6. I used pin D3 on the ECU to give ground above 5mph. For power, I used connector C101 which had a wire for fuse 6 to splice into.

2. Yes, I did this and my speedo is working well. Just switch D12 and D9. You will have to cut and crimp/solder because the terminals are different sizes.

3. Clutch safety switch: I wired the clutch safety switch to the Park/Neutral input on the driver's under dash fusebox. This way, the car will only start when the clutch is pressed in.

You will also have to wire the reverse lights using the reverse output on the transmission housing. Use a ground source nearby, and send the switched ground to the reverse input wire on C102.

Let me know if you have questions. There may be some other things that require custom wiring.

boostedj30
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Great information! 

Great information! 

I'm curious, why doesn't the preset A3 work for the lockout solenoid? Under Tools>Configure Outputs>LS3, it looks to be preset for the 5mph trigger.  It just doesnt trigger ground to the reverse lockout correctly for some reason?  If you got it working with D3 than heck... I'm going for it!  I just dont understand the difference between a LS switched and a Idle switched ground, They are both ground outputs....right? Both seem to have the same options to configure?

And in regards to the 12v side of the lockout, can it be any 12v ignition source?

 

 

One other issue i have come across and i havent seen any solutions on the other forums either, is the Engine Coolant temp gauge in the cluster.  Not sure about your Acura, but the OEM wire that sends the signal for coolant temp to the gauge on my 2001 Accord isnt used with the EMS2.  Its pin A1.  I think its because its not a 0-5v signal, its some kind of wierd serial signal.

I have a feeling Auto Meter will have to fix that.

 

So far as much as I've seen the A/C compressor is working, the traction control light is on all the time,  I did the same speedo trick and reverse light wiring so that works.

 

Glad to see someone else working on the same project!

Karanx7
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What engine harness are you

What engine harness are you using? The auto one?

The LS3 output is for pin A3 yes, but the auto wire harness doesn't actually plug into that reverse lockout signal. I just cut off a useless hanging terminal that happened to fit the reverse lockout, and soldered it to a wire that was able to reach the reverse lockout. That wire happened to be D3. This way, I didnt have to add a custom wire from the ECU pin straight to the pin. Low side or idle, doesn't matter. As long as that pin is a switcheable ground output.

The power can come from anywhere. I just used that fuse because the OEM 03 CL-S6 uses it (I tried to match the oem 6 speed setup as close as possible).

The EMS doesn't even try to output the coolant signal to the gauge. It receives and understands the coolant temp, so at least the radiator fans work. The problem is that I don't know how to send the coolant signal the the gauge. I'm looking into some options right now. It seems the 99 TL sent a signal straight from the coolant temp sensor straight to the gauge, so I might splice that in.

The only thing I don't have working right now is the coolant temp gauge, and the driver's position memory recall.

What tune are you using? Do you have a J32 or a J30?

boostedj30
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Ok that makes sense about why

Ok that makes sense about why you choose the D3 instead of the preset A3. I wondered that as well, why use a pin from the body harness for the reverse lockout?  Anyway, I just ran a wire out to it from A3 while i was putting  together my harness including the MAC solenoid wire and etc..

Yes Im using a 2003 TL 3.2 auto harness, which is identical except a few colors to my original 2001 Accord auto harness, and it allowed me to add a knock sensor. I'm still using the J30-for now. Its still a really tight engine and ran perfectly on 12psi the last 3 years, using an FIC.  I just had that harness cut up a bit ( couldnt afford a Boomslang harness at the time) so i used the TL one I got with a spare engine.  I also am using the larger intake form the J32, had to so some modding to my fuel rails, and added a 13mm spacer plate to get the intake to fit.

 

What I seem to gather about our temp gauge, at least with the Accord and Im sure your is really similar, is that prior to 2000 the J-engines had a sensor for the ecm, and one for the gauge.  Now theres just 1 0-5V sensor that sends signal to the ecu, and the ecu sends a "different" type of signal to the gauge.  When you ground the signal wire, it shoots up to hot after a few seconds (this is the test procedure for the gauge in the manual) applying 1.58v does the same, and 3.2V does nothing.  I tried those voltages with a couple AA batteries, sounds crude but I was just experimenting. The gauge from what I gather requires a different signal than your traditional gauge.  Again, I think this is why AEM ommited it.

 

Im kinda dissapointed with how the traction control works on this EMS2... I work with a tech at has a 10 sec Civic using Hondata and we assumed id be able to read a rear wheel sensor as an input for traction control... but nope. Just RPM and VSS, and it doesnt even really work with the Traction conrtol settings that well. They recommend using the 3 step settings.

 

If you need any info at all let me know.  I am a manager at a Honda dealer, and have access to any information we need on our cars.  Im happy to help out!

ADDiCTED
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Hi I just did my swap for my

.