Aem 6051 Setting Basemap help... | AEM
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DroolinMoron
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Joined: 04/05/2018 - 17:57
Aem 6051 Setting Basemap help...

Hello, I've just got done with my swap and i started my Engine but with a little trouble....

 

I noticed the calibration that my 6051 came with did not really start up correctly, I had to add some fuel to get it going and even so it is very rough...

 

I need some help setting a basemap and i've got a few questions...

 

From the Bottom 2 rows i had to set the values to 5.5-5.8 to get a normal start and for it to idle normally... As i read on my AFR wideband( Innovate LC1) it reads 20.00... is that a  bit too high?

I played with the values a bit and brought it back down to 3.0 area and the AFR reads 13-15... Is something wrong here? also at 3.0 value, the car is rough

 

I have set ignition timing and put Correct BTDC at 10.1 for my vehicle...

 

Needing some insight and help...

 

 

That is what i have currently and it is Idling at 800rpms or so, I can't figure out how to get the Datalog, so i this is just a screen shot(not hooked on car)

when i step on the gas it bogs and pops, it sounds really rough and i can't figure out why??.... I can move the car but it sounds like a Hot rod dying.

AEM_SB
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Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 06/07/2014 - 14:29
1. Based on your questions,

1. Based on your questions, it sounds like you are not experienced at tuning standalone ECU's. There is a basic level of general EFI tuning knowledge necessary to get a vehicle running well, even though we supply a base map it's not intended to be enough to go run the car on a racetrack without spending a few hours making adjustments. If you're not up to speed yet, consider hiring a tuner who is experienced with the ECU and engine you are using. If you want to learn more about tuning and do it yourself, there are resources online that can help with that. EFI University and Horsepower Academy are two that come to mind, plus there are a few helpful videos that can be found by searching 'AEM Series 2 Idle Tuning' on youtube.

 

2. Part of what an experienced tuner can help with is knowing the difference between an engine that needs calibration adjustments and a single-cylinder misfire that may be caused by something other than simple fuel map adjustments. On a new install that idles rough, it's a good idea to disable each of the outputs to double-check that they were working properly. One method for doing this is to physically unplug the connectors in the harness if they are easy to access. Another is to disable them via software. Some engines will stall when you disable a cylinder, so you might need to raise the idle target or give it some throttle to keep the engine running. Each time you disable one injector or coil outputs you should hear the engine misfire and see that bank's O2 sensor show a lean reading. If you disable an output but the engine runs the same and the lambda measurement doesn't change, that's a good indicator that something was not working properly. From there you may want to double-check  the wiring for the injectors and coils. If your first test says one cylinder isn't firing but all the wiring for coils and injectors checks out OK, you might have an injector that is not opening. One way to test this is to remove the fuel rail and swap that injector with one of the others, but that's a lot of work and I personally dislike spilling fuel if I can avoid it. You might also try listening to each injector, lots of mechanics have their own tricks for how to listen to individual parts in a vehicle's engine bay.

 

3. This was posted in the wrong section of the forums, we will probably move it to the correct Series2 section so please look for it there if you have trouble finding it later. 

 

Hope that helps,

SB

 
DroolinMoron
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Joined: 04/05/2018 - 17:57
 

 

Oh, I’m sorry about posting in wrong section, I’m new to forums in general but I get the idea.

And yes I am new to tuning, I would love to learn, I will look into those classes, they sound interesting. I mainly bought this ecu so I can get my engine going, it was frustrating with the OEM ecu( wouldn’t get spark or gas) which I thought was weird, considering my donor vehicle was complete and driving before I pulled parts, anyways, I’ve got some help from a local tuner but he’s charging me quite a bit for a base map.... about 800? Not even a dyno tune...  I prefer to do this on my own and learn. 

I have double and triple checked each cylinder, both via software and physically pulling coils, it all checks out, I believe my engine is sound, compression and new plugs with new coils, engine is rebuilt also( I’ve rebuilted a few engines with no issues but of course oem ecu and oem parts) this is probably my second time messing with tuning, I used Hondata before but I just used a calibration file and tweaked it a little, so seeing AemPro is quite overwhelming but I’m slowly understanding bits and pieces of it...I’ve found the YouTube video you recommended, very helpful, thanks a bunch!

AEM_NS
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Last seen: 1 hour 12 min ago
Joined: 06/06/2014 - 09:31
$800 is probably on the

$800 is probably on the higher end of what you'd expect for a full tune I think - especially if it's a stock NA engine. Why do you need to pay for a base cal when we give you one for free and it appears to already start and run the engine? If you have some other kind of setup/install/configuration problem, the paid for base cal may or may not address this at all. If you're going to pay a tuner, I'd just move forward with paying to have it fully tuned since it already starts and runs on the free base cal from AEM.

DroolinMoron
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Last seen: 2 years 2 months ago
Joined: 04/05/2018 - 17:57
I got confused from my tuner,

I got confused from my tuner, I just talked to him, and he told me he would tune it for 800 on a dyno, I think I'm going to go with that and Hopefully learn something from him as he tunes it, Thank you for the quick replies.