Cam Sync 0 Errors, Cranks no start/idle | AEM
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Last seen: 9 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/20/2018 - 17:41
Cam Sync 0 Errors, Cranks no start/idle

Hello All,

Hoping somebody can suggest a solution to eradicate the camsync0 error count appearing under the Diagnostics tab when cranking and locking to either:

0,10 or 15 degrees before TDC with a timing light. Car still not idling.... close but no cigar!

Tried many alterations to Noise cancellation (10,30,70), VR PWMDuty and Offsets. 

Cam trigger is a 12 and 1 mounted he front bank inlet CAM, which made me question if it could be an issue with the CAM belt slipping a toot or something., As a result tried locking and syncing with markings on the CAM pulleys on the front bank which all lined up with the liming light as expected.  

Engine is a  high Compression engine C30a Honda (Acura) NSX engine, perhaps somebody else has encountered similar problems setting up their Infinity 7101 (708) ECU.
(Updated the Firmware and software t ensure no version mismatch existed. v96.2)

Could it be a noise issue? VR CAM and Crank sensor  wiring Issue? Would you suggest altering the VR_PWMDuty tables? ... and if so recommeded settings that would suit the trigger threshold above and below 500rpm for the NSX sensor. 

Thankfully ithe timing of the error count is consistant iand increases at the same point in the cycle which should suggest it's a settings issue.

When locking with the timing light it appears happy at locked at 0 or 15 degrees at Camsyncadjustment- 3 and 19.5 degrees offset based on tthe 12and1 trigger pulldown option (109.5 degrees)

Would appreciate any input which may help resolve  the camsync0 error issue, Running out  of ideas




Attached a recent log will upload a session file if required, would really apppreciate any input, probably something fundamental I've overlooked. Please feel free to comment and recommend next steps,



Last seen: 2 weeks 56 min ago
Joined: 06/07/2014 - 14:29
Posting your calibration

Posting your calibration would be helpful. I have to make some guesses without seeing the calibration, plus I'm not very familiar with that engine. It looks like the engine is fitted with the OEM 12-tooth trigger on the crank, and also picking up an extra cam tooth.  If that engine has a different cam sensor with a single tooth on the wheel, try connecting to that instead.

The engine is also spinning very slowly on the starter since the battery is too low, it's a good idea to put a charger on the battery in case you need to spend more time cranking before you get everything sorted.



FYI, others have had to reverse their VR+ and VR- crank  & cam signal wires for running on NSX engines,  the OEM Honda ECU wants a rising edge signal and our Infinity ECU wants a falling edge signal. It's too early to predict if yours is wired correctly or not, but keep an eye on the timing light once you get the engine running.  If the VR crank wires are flipped (sending a rising edge signal to the Infinity ECU) the ignition timing will drift advanced or retarded by 15+ degrees when you free rev the engine to 3000+ RPM.


Hope that helps,


Last seen: 9 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/20/2018 - 17:41
Thanks for the reply SB,

Thanks for the reply SB,

Glad to hear you recognise it as a 12 and 1 wheel from the log, Caught me out at first as he standard factory Crank/Cam trigger wheel is 24 and 1. 

Took me a moment to recognise and check the non factory Adjustable Cams have a 12 and 1 config. 
Even when set up with 12 and 1 I notice that if you shift the offset more than a few degrees the strobe seems confused and shifts dramtically flashing at around BDC almost 180 degrees away from what I would expect. 
Guess this might be a symptom and illustration of you suspicions on the rising edge/faling edge theory on this NSX C30a. Defo sounds like the place to start and double check.  Will further investigate.

A fresh battery is waiting in the wings, been trying to avoid continually recharging and cranking to avoid damaging the new battery until this main issue is settled down. This is the already the second battery, mainly due to a separate IO firmware/software inherited issue with the orginal 708 ecu in the car. 
Wouldn't even alow the firmware to update succesfully, perhaps corrupted or perhaps version/table mismatch. The ECU ill need to be completely reflashed/reset. 

Thankfully, this fresh and up-to-date ECU install allows us to continue and focus on the current timing issue.

Much appreciateed,