Need advice on Infinity 6 to J32A2 engine connections | AEM
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62 Mini Cooper
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Need advice on Infinity 6 to J32A2 engine connections

Hi everybody,

I have been connecting up my Infinity6 to my Honda J32A2 engine. I have completed the power distribution verbatim from the instruction sheet on page 18 so I'm good there. I have connected the IAT, TP, ECT, oil pressure and MAP sensors. Do I need a fuel pressure input? My engine has one Knock sensor so I will connect that to C1-44. I cannot find any mention of a camshaft position sensor anywhere in any of the Honda/Acura manuals (I bought them all). I do have two TDC VR sensors. To me these should be off the cams, but I am not sure. I could land them at C1-19 and C1-20 for TDC1 and I could land TDC2 at C1-54 and C1-55. Or would it make more sense to land them both at C1-54/55 and C1-56/57? Or do I need only one TDC? I have one VR crankshaft position sensor. It looks like I should land this one at C1-17 and C1-18. Correct? Also, I am supercharging this engine so I purchased a boost sensor from AEM. This is installed in the block off plate for the old throttle body in the manifold. Should I connect this sensor to C1-42? And finally, do I need to hook up the IAC circuit as well as the VTEC valve and switch? If so, where do you suggest I connect these to?

Thanks for any advice you can give,

John

AEM_SB
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That's a few questions in a

That's a few questions in a row, I'll add numbers to my replies.

1. Fuel pressure sensor is optional. It's helpful to have since low fuel pressure is a pretty common problem for modified cars, but the ECU can run the engine well without it as long as the fuel system is working well.

2. You're probably correct that the signal Honda is calling 'TDC' is representing cam position. I think we've already mentioned this in one of your other forum threads, but the Infinity firmware isn't going to work with the OEM pattern from the J32A2 cam trigger wheel. We support the newer J37 pattern which has 3-wire hall effect sensors, 24 teeth on the crankshaft and 3 on the camshaft. This might be the trickiest part of your install, and it doesn't help that I'm seeing conflicting info online regarding various model year engines that might have been labeled J32A2. For some of them, the OEM crank trigger wheel has 12 evenly-spaced teeth, and the OEM cam trigger wheel has 4 teeth on it. We never programmed the Infinity to work with that pattern due to low demand, so if you have it you will need to grind down some of the teeth on the cam trigger wheel so the sensor only detects one tooth. We may be able to get you in touch with some experienced Honda shops if you need help modifying your cam trigger wheel or buying one that has already been modified.

 

3. If the thing you're calling a 'boost sensor' is the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor like our PN 30-2130-50, it needs to connect to the ECU's MAP input, C1-52.  If you have a boost control solenoid for adjusting the pressure to a turbocharger's wastegate diaphragm, that should connect to C1-42. It's perfectly OK to run a simple turbo setup that doesn't use a boost control solenoid, it will just run at wastegate spring pressure.

4. An IAC valve is helpful to have, it lets the ECU adjust the idle RPM so you don't have to hold your foot on the gas to keep it alive when the engine is cold. I'd recommend wiring it to the ECU if you've still got it installed on the engine. Connect it to C1-02 (Lowside5 duty cycle output) or C1-22 (Lowside 3 duty cycle output).

5. Most Honda VTEC oil control solenoids receive a switched 12V (high side) signal from the ECU, it's just a 1-wire connector and then the solenoid is grounded through the engine. If you plan to use VTEC, wire the VTEC oil control solenoid to the ECU's C1-58 pin (Highside0). The stock Honda ECU would use the VTEC pressure switch to confirm that the cam actually received oil pressure before switching to the high-lift calibration settings, but our ECU just assumes the pressure switch is working. You can leave the pressure switch disconnected, or you can wire it to a spare switch input if you want to see that data for troubleshooting.

 

Hope that helps,

SB

62 Mini Cooper
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Thanks for the help SB, and

Thanks for the help SB, and to keep things straight I'll respond going by the numbers as well.

1. I have installed a Fuel Lab fuel pressure regulator. I added an analog fuel pressure gauge to the regulator's body, but I can just as easily remove that and add a 3 wire sender and go to the ECM. Beside,s that way I can see my fuel pressure on the CD7 dash without going back to the rear of the car. So that's cool.

2. This is the hard one. This is also a JDM engine. Does that help or complicate matters even more? And since my Cam sensors are both VR do we know what tooth configuration they are? By grinding off teeth I am assuming the engine has to come out of the car. I think I might be able to pull the cam out about two inches before it starting hitting either the rear sub-frame or something. I live in Northern Califonia so my plan was to take the car to FFTEC in Fremont to have it tuned. They claim to be AEM Infinity certified. Will they be able to address this problem?

3. THe supercharger that I have put on the engine has a fixed boost based on pulley size so I don't need boost control. I already have an AEM MAP sensor wired up. For some reason Real Street Performance suggested I add a separate boost pressure sinsor. Didn't make sense, but since this is my first real standalone ECM application I just went with it. So I guess I will just eliminate the extra sensor and fab a new block off plate. No biggy.

4. I just switched to a Skunk2 74mm throttle body. THe OEM body has the IAC valve. Not sure how I can add that. I'll look into a mod.

5. Got it. SO the Valve wire just goes high with ignition (but coming from the ECM) and the VTEC oil pressure switch is actually what pulls it in. Cool. If I were to wire the pressure switch in would I just go into one of the digital inputs?

AEM_SB
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1. Good idea. The fuel

1. Good idea. The fuel injector tables in the ECU reference injector flow at different fuel pressures, so if you have good data for your injectors the ECU can try to compensate if it detects fuel pressure dropping below normal. This sort of feature was pretty uncommon in aftermarket standalones until about 5-7 years ago, so it makes sense that most regulators will still include old-style analog gauges rather than sensors.

 

2. If the info I've found online is correct, you probably have a crank trigger with 12 evenly-spaced teeth and a cam trigger with four 'bumps' that get measured by the cam sensors. If you search 'j32a2 cam trigger wheel' there are some photos possted by users on the msextra.com forums.   I'm not an engine guy, so I'm not sure exactly where that trigger wheel is located and how difficult it would be to remove & replace. All of our Infinity-trained dealers should be able to help with full-thottle dyno tuning on a car that already starts and runs, but not all of them will be experienced modifying something like this on a car that doesn't yet run. I'd suggest contacting the shop you plan to work with, point them to this thread and see if they are familiar with doing this sort of thing on J-series engines.

Having two cam sensors is probably a method for finding which cylinder is at TDC with as little engine rotation as possible. OEMs have tried lots of different cam/crank trigger patterns for this, less time spent cranking the engine means the car can tolerate a low battery and it might also reduce emissions slightly. The Infinity only needs one cam signal, but it's important that signal has only one pulse per cam rotation if you're using a crank trigger wheel with 12 evenly-spaced teeth.

 

3. There might have been some misunderstanding there. As long as your MAP sensor can measure 1-2psi more than the max pressure you plan to run you should be fine. Second pressure sensors might be useful if you're doing tricky things like evaluating the efficiency of various intercoolers, but not needed to run an engine.

 

4. It's possible to run an engine without an IAC valve, but that involves some tradeoffs that I don't like making on a cars that need to drive nicely.

 

5. If you're not sure which is which, it might help to find photos online or measure resistance with a multimeter. The VTEC solenoid should be about 10-20ohms between the connector and the chassis. The resistance of the pressure measuring switch will depend if there is pressure in the oil passages or not. I don't remember how the pressure switch is usually wired in the stock setup, you may need to reverse-engineer some factory diagrams to figure out whether it's designed to send 12V to the ECU or send ground to the ECU when it gets activated. Most of the ECU's switch inputs are expecting to receive ground from the switch.

62 Mini Cooper
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OK cool. All great info. I

OK cool. All great info. I will let you know how it turns out for reference.

62 Mini Cooper
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Hey SB, one final question.

Hey SB, one final question. After looking at the Mega Squirt forum and a number of other sites I can easily see how to grind off the 3 cam timing lobes so I'm all set there. In doing the research I found a number o freferences to adjustable, variable cam timing wheels. Since I have to take the timing belt cover off and remove the belt I can swap out both timing wheels at once as easily as the one withthe lobes. Ignoring the cost, do you see any benefit to switching to variable timing wheels with the Infinity 6? Thanks, John

 

AEM_SB
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Glad to hear that. Again I'm

Glad to hear that. Again I'm not an engine guy and not very familiar with the J-series V6, so please double-check this info: I have heard of adjustable cam gears being used on older Honda 4 cylinder engines like the B-series. Adjusting the cam gear shifts the cam timing which usually moves the powerband to slightly higher or lower RPM. You do need to be careful not to advance so far that you cause valves-to-valve or valve-to-piston contact, especially if you have aftermarket internals. Newer engine designs like the K-series use electronically adjustable cam timing on the fly so the ECU can adjust the cam angle on the fly for best power at any RPM. I think Honda calls theirs i-VTEC.

62 Mini Cooper
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I may as well forget about

I may as well forget about saying, “one last question” because we both know it’s not true. Hey I started to take my cam pulley wheel off this afternoon and I noticed the four lobes that are being used for the trigger were pressed through from the other side. There is a serious indentation on the non-lobe side. So much so that when I grind the lobes flat I am pretty sure I will create a rectangular hole there. My concern is that not only will I not have a lobe there I will have an opening. Will that throw off the VR sensor or is it weak enough that it has to be very close to create a signal?

 

AEM_PT
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Should look like this

Should look like this

bouckaroo
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I have done anumber of J32a2

I have done anumber of J32a2 Infinti Harness for guys whom want to run the J32A2.  You will need the Lower Timing Cog from a 2003 acura cl-s, it is hte only year of the wide belt or gen 1 j engine to have 24 teeth on the cog. Next you need both the crank sensor and the pair of cam sensors form the front bank of the cylinder head. This will allow you to run the Hall Effect Sensors. Then you set the I6 up so that the 24 hall crank and 1 hall cam setup is set in the wizard.

 

To wire it in you need to send the Crank signal to the C21 and the cam signal to C1-22.

 You need to grind off all the triggers with the exception of the trigger tooth on Cylinder 4.

 

 

a Prelude above all other

62 Mini Cooper
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Wow. That was fun. The

Wow. That was fun. The hardest part of that whole operation was taking off the crankshaft pulley bolt. Takes a special Honda tool to holt the crank in place while you use a 19 mm socket with an 8 FOOT cheater bar. I actually broke a Husky 1/2" extension. I know they are cheap tools but man. Good thing it wasn't mine! After that it was all pretty easy. By the way, the whole front of the engine is exposed to get to the front timing wheel so you may as well change the timing belt, water pump pulleys and seals while you are at it. It's like $140 in parts but you are there anyway so why not?

Thanks again for everybody's help!

62 Mini Cooper
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New question about my harness

New question about my harness. I purchased a 30-3706 flying lead harness since my JDM engine had lopped off wires. I am almost finished and it is looking good. I was told to get a 30-2001 universal O2 sensor for this application by a dealer. This O2 sensor has five wires. Black, red, yellow, white and gray. My flying lead harness has 5 unterminated yellow wires. Looking at the picture in the instruction sheet there should be a connector there, but it is not. No problem. I will just add a 6-pin DTM connector to both ends. That will make it easier if I have to drop the engine. The 5 yellow wires are UEGO heat, 1P, 1A, VM and UN. Can you tell me what color wires on the sensor goes to the 5 yellow wires in the harness?

Thanks,

John

AEM_JG
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[quote=62 Mini Cooper]

[quote=62 Mini Cooper]

New question about my harness. I purchased a 30-3706 flying lead harness since my JDM engine had lopped off wires. I am almost finished and it is looking good. I was told to get a 30-2001 universal O2 sensor for this application by a dealer. This O2 sensor has five wires. Black, red, yellow, white and gray. My flying lead harness has 5 unterminated yellow wires. Looking at the picture in the instruction sheet there should be a connector there, but it is not. No problem. I will just add a 6-pin DTM connector to both ends. That will make it easier if I have to drop the engine. The 5 yellow wires are UEGO heat, 1P, 1A, VM and UN. Can you tell me what color wires on the sensor goes to the 5 yellow wires in the harness?

Thanks,

John

[/quote]

Here is the correct connector for the wideband sensor:
https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/sensors-connectors-accessories/w...

Do not cut the sensor connector as there is a calibration trim resistor in the connector that needs to remain in place or the sensor will not function properly. There should be a 6th wire for the wideband that is for switched +12v for the heater. The pinout for the LSU 4.2 sensor is as follows:

AEM_SB
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All 6 pins on the connector

All 6 pins on the connector are important, even though there are only 5 wires between the sensor and connector there is an important resistor inside the connector housing (between pins 2 and 6) that needs to be in the circuit to work properly.

 

Here's the numbering for the Bosch connector. Note the colors in this picture match some of our wideband gauge harnesses, and may not match the wire colors on the sensor exactly.

https://www.aemelectronics.com/sites/default/files/forumpictures/Bosch%2...

 

For an Infinity-506 ECU:

Bosch pin 1 goes to Infinity pin C1-8  (UEGO UN)

Bosch pin 2 goes to Infinity pin C1-6 (UEGO IA)

Bosch pin 3 needs to receive 12V power from the harness, this should be a wire capable of carrying at least 5A current.

Bosch pin 4 goes to Infinity pin C1-5  (UEGO Heater switched ground), this should be a wire capable of carrying at least 5A current.

Bosch pin 5 goes to Infinity pin C1-9  (UEGO VM)

Bosch Pin 6 goes to Infinity pin C1-8  (UEGO IP)

 

 

Hope that helps,

SB

62 Mini Cooper
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Hey SB,

Hey SB,

I am almost ready to go to the tuners! Woohoo! I want to bring the fuel level into the ECK so I can display it on the CD7. Can I just bring it into any one of the 100kOhm analog inputs? 5V source and Signal ground? Is there one analog input usually reserved for fuel level? And during the initial setup the tuner will just raise and lower the arm to set the 0% and 100% min/max?

 

 

62 Mini Cooper
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ECM

ECM

AEM_SB
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The trick with fuel level

The trick with fuel level sensors is they usually have a very low resistance. You may need to add a resistor to the harness if you want to connect the sensor directly to the ECU (not tapped onto a factory dash fuel gauge). There's some info about that here. Note that thread mentions the Airbox Temp input, but you won't have that pin on an Infinity-506. You could use the ECU's Oil Temperature input, if you're not planning to use it for measuring oil temp.

https://www.aemelectronics.com/forum/e90-fuel-level-sensor-wired-infinit...

 

Hope that helps,

SB